Take a detour through one of the world's last Kingdoms - Swaziland

Many know of Swaziland only as the tiny landlocked country that tourists drive through on their way from Johannesburg, South Africa, to Kruger National Park, eagerly anticipating upcoming big game sightings.

However, it's a mistake to bypass this charming and friendly country. Consider spending a few days in the Kingdom of Swaziland - Africa's last - indeed, one of the world's last - absolute monarchies.

Background:

Swaziland is surrounded on three sides by South Africa, and on one side by Mozambique. The former British colony is about 17,000 square kilometers, and has a population of about one million. The country is lush and hilly, from the "Highveld" (high altitude) area in West, where the capital Mbabane is located, to the "Lowveld" area in the East.

Things to do:

- Mkhaya Game Reserve: This low-key and non-touristy game park is a treat, because the luxury thatched accommodation and tented camp is not overrun with tourists. Once you arrive at around 4pm in the afternoon and park your car, everything is seamlessly arranged for you - starting with a game drive into the park on your way to the lodges. The visit includes an afternoon game drive; dinner; one night's accommodation; breakfast; and a morning drive on the way out of the park. The accommodations comprise beautiful and rustic open-air covered villas, which have showers that face out into the wilderness (I saw a wandering warthog when I took my morning shower!). The following animals live within the reserve: black rhino, roan & sable antelope, tsessebe, white rhino, elephant and other locally endangered species.

- Shewula Mountain Camp: Swaziland's first community-owned camp is located on the border of Mozambique in the Lobombo mountains (on clear days Maputo is clearly visible); guests stay in traditional rondavels (round, thatched huts), witness traditional dances, taste traditional Swazi fare, visit the local town and more in support of this community economic development initiative.

- Rock Lodge: Be one with nature as you stay in a rustic lodge carved into the mountainside overlooking the valleys of Swaziland. Bring your own food, drink, toiletries, flashlights, and sleeping bag - as this venue offers merely simple covered areas with bunk beds, a kitchen area, gas stove, and an amazing outdoor bathroom on the edge of the cliff - shower overlooking a massive valley! You need a four-wheel drive to navigate to the Lodge, or arrange to be picked up. To arrange a night in this unique and special place, get in touch with Horseshoe Farms in Quantum, or All Out Africa.

- Potholes, Malolotja Nature Reserve: Take a beautiful and challenging - but satisfying - hike in Malalotja park and discover a series of "potholes" or round freshwater pools, separated by waterfalls. Swim across the pools, jump off the waterfalls, or simply have a picnic. Don't forget to bring lots of water and sunscreen. Then, stay overnight at one of the park's few cabins, enjoying an outdoor barbeque or "braii," and stare up at the best southern sky star-scape imaginable.

Milwane Wildlife Sanctuary

- Swazi Trails: This adventure sport company offers a variety of water sports and adventure activities, such as - safaris, hikes, white water rafting, adventure caving, mountain biking, horse riding, hiking, paragliding, abseiling, quad-biking.

- Ezulwini and Malkerns valleys: Drive into the valleys to see the lush greenery in this "Midveld" area, shop for some handicrafts (for example, at the Mantenga Craft center), and stop for a bite to eat.

- Ngwenya Glass: Visit this beautiful shop featuring stunning hand-blown glassware and vases, and learn about the history of how this European craft was imported to Swaziland. To make room for wedding gifts for friends, I left clothes behind in Swaziland so that I could bring these treasures home in my luggage. Ngwenya is located just over the border from South Africa - at one of the major border posts.

Meals and entertainment:

Try one of these - my favourite - restaurants:

- Malandela's: Located in Malkerns and in the same complex as House on Fire, this restaurant overlooks fields of pineapple crops and rolling hills. An expat favourite, it offers a variety of beers and a long recipe list. Malandela's is also a bed and breakfast.

- eDladleni Restaurant: This beautiful and quiet restaurant serves traditional Swazi food. Reservations are required as the remote restaurant does not open without guaranteed guests.

- The Boma Restaurant: Boma has an expansive pizza menu which comprises both Western favourites and those inspired by local ingredients, such as pineapple and avocado.

- Royal Swazi Hotel: This hotel has great weekend brunches (try the club sandwich or dessert menu). Guests can also purchase day pass access to the resort's pool facilities.

- House on Fire: This unique bar is located in the Malkerns area. The bar displays local art, features local and national DJs and on occasion international theatre, had has both covered and open-air bar facilities. House on Fire is not open all weekend nights - call ahead to determine the bar's lineup. Don't forget House on Fire's international music festival each may, called Bushfire.

Getting there:

Driving from Johannesburg to Mbabane takes between four and five hours, with reliable roads (driving at night is not recommended, however). Bus service is available from South Africa as well (I had a great experience with Swatini TransMagnific and the popular South African backpacker-friendly bus service Baz Bus serves Swaziland as well.

Swaziland has one international airport, Matsapha Airport in Manzini, served by Airlink Swaziland with frequent flights from South Africa.

Link:
Swaziland Tourism Authority